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Attended a great tasting in Taipei in April. 33 wines from Sologn’s natural winemakers were in one room ready to show their charm. Menu Pineau is made in many styles while Romorantin has proved to us it has amazing ageing potential. Qvevri can be seen more often. Sologne is getting more and more exciting!
All prices below are RRP provided by Vinaria.
Claude Cortois是法國自然酒的先驅，他在Soings-en-Sologne建立的Les Cailloux du Paradis莊園就是自然派種植的最佳典範，注重生物的多樣性，除了葡萄之外，他還種了大麥等其他許多農作物，可以養殖雞、豬等動物。為了充分展現風土的特色，他同時栽種了包括許多古老品種在內等超過四十種的葡萄品種，而混種混釀的Racines正是他表現自我理念的最佳代表作。
Racines Rouge / Vin de France / France / 2015 $2100
品種: Gamay、Cot、Cabernet Franc、Pinot Noir、Gascon Noir等
型態: Field Blend Red | 古園混調紅酒
Restrained and elegant in the nose. Red fruit – crunchy . Red current, violet. MED – body. Good fruit finish.
2. Racines Blanc / Vin de France / France / 2015 $2100
品種: Sauvignon Blanc、Menu Pineau、Romorantin、Chardonnay
型態: Field Blend White | 古園混調白酒
Round texture. Yellow fruit, apricot fresh, MED acidity
Les Cailloux du Paradis / Etienne Courtois
考慮到自己逐漸老邁，Claude Courtois除了在前幾年將一部分的葡萄園轉讓給大兒子Julien Courtois讓他自立門戶之外，也逐漸將重要的種植和釀酒工作移交給一直陪在身旁的小兒子Etienne Courtois，目前除了Racines這款創業酒之外，其它的cuvee都已經是Etienne一個人負責了。獨當一面的Etienne深受父親的哲理影響，但思緒謹慎周詳的他，有著更多自己的想法，透過這些一樣的酒款，可以感受的同樣對自然的堅持。
3. Plume d’Ange / Vin de France / France / 2016 $1950
品種: Sauvignon Blanc
型態: Low Intervention White | 少干預白酒
Med+ acidity. Gooseberry. Apple green. Juicy apricot finish
4. Evidance / Vin de France / France / 2008 $4950
品種: Menu Pineau
型態: Sous Voile | 酒花陳釀白酒
Menu Pineau 10 years – no topping up wine, so flor grew naturally. Sur voile. Oily texture. Salty savoury finish. Texture – round and full. Yeasty. A bit tannic.
5. Cuvee des Etourneaux / Vin de France / France / 2014 $1950
品種: Gamay
型態: Low Intervention Red | 少干預紅酒
Ripe red fruit – plum (quite open) Juicy. Low tannins. Med 12.25 abv.
6. L’Icaunais / Vin de France / France / 2015 $2100
品種: Gascon
型態: Low Intervention Red | 少干預紅酒
Floral. Red fresh crunchy fruit. Low tannins. Really pure juicy fruit. Style- elegant overall.
Herve Villemade
從釀酒學校畢業後，Herve Villemade在1995年從父親的手中接掌下家族酒莊(Domaine du Moulin)，酒莊就位於Cheverny產區的中心。由於從Marcel Lapierre的酒中得到啟發，同時受到好友Clos du Tue-Boeuf酒莊的Thierry Puzelat之影響，Herve Villemade從1999年開始採用有機農耕與自然釀法。不使用任何的農藥與化學肥料，讓葡萄藤在自然的生態環境中生長，同時嚴格降低產量，如此所得的高品質葡萄，全由原生天然酵母菌發酵，不加酸或加糖或任何其他人工添加，以最簡單的方式釀造出充分展現風土特色且美味可口的款款佳釀，如今的Herve Villemade儼然成為羅亞爾河自然派最具代表性的人物之一，他的佳釀都是目前巴黎自然酒吧最受歡迎的酒款。
7. What’s up / Vin de France / France / 2019 $1200
品種: Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Menu Pineau
型態: Pet-Nat | 自然氣泡酒
Apple- bruised- apple tart. Tiny bubbles. Mousy (popcorn at the end) in a nice way!!!! But tried again after one, really mousy. （台灣人說像冬瓜茶）. If you are sensitive to mousiness, then this is not for you. Luckily for many people, mousiness is hard to detect anyway.
8. Cheverny Blanc Domaine / Cheverny / France / 2019 $985
品種: 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Chardonnay
型態: Low Intervention White | 少干預白酒
Apples! Ripe! Texture. Med acidity. Doesn’t feel like a cool climate wine 14.19 abv!!!!! Heat but balanced
9. Orbois / Vin de France / France / 2019 $1100
品種: Menu Pineau
型態: Low Intervention White | 少干預白酒
Quite neutral. Tannins! But I was told there is no skin contact. Apple. Fresh. Med acidity . 12.95 ABV
10. La Bodice / Cheverny / France / 2018 $1500
品種: 80% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Chardonnay
型態: Low Intervention White | 少干預白酒
Skin contact? 14.39 abv! Balanced.
11. Les Saules / Cour-Cheverny / France / 2018 $1200
品種: Romorantin
型態: Low Intervention White | 少干預白酒
100% Romorantin. The one to watch. Interesting. High acidity neutral. Quince and elder flower. 14.09 abv NTD$ 1200. Good value.
12. Les Acacias / Cour-Cheverny / France / 2010 $2500
品種: Romorantin
型態: Low Intervention White | 少干預白酒
Romorantin can certainly age!!! Great comparison. I prefer this older version, Riper apple. Peach . Very good!!!!! 13.01 abv NTD$ 2500
13. Gamay / Vin de France / France / 2019 $925
品種: Gamay
型態: Carbo | 二氧化碳泡皮法 (100%不去梗)
Med – tannins 14.46 abv. Red berries.
14. Cheverny Rouge Domaine / Cheverny / 2019 $985
品種: 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Gamay
型態: Low Intervention Red | 少干預紅酒
Fizzy. High acidity. Med tannins. Crunchy red fruit.
15.Cot / Vin de France / France / 2018 $925
品種: Cot
型態: Carbo | 二氧化碳泡皮法 (50%不去梗)
Sour cherry aromas. Hint of savoury preserved prune. Olive brine.
16. Les Ardilles / Cheverny / France / 2019 $1500
品種: 85% Pinot Noir, 15% Gamay
型態: Low Intervention Red | 少干預紅酒
13.95% abv. Still very closed. Need time.
Clos du Tue-Boeuf
由Thierry和Jean-Marie Puzelat兩兄弟當家的Clos du Tue-Boeuf可說是代表羅亞爾河自然酒的第一把交椅，在他們接手之後的近三十年期間，堅持有機農法和完全不添加的純手工釀法，將Clos du Tue-Boeuf從原本特立獨行的極端名字轉變為目前法國自然酒界的標竿。
17. Vin Blanc / Vin de France / France / 2019 $960
品種: Sauvignon Blanc
型態: Low Intervention White | 少干預白酒
A bit closed. Apple finish hint of grassiness.
18. Romorantin / Vin de France / France / 2018 $1700
品種: Romorantin (1/3為超過百年的老藤，其中2/3為franc de pied原根種植)
型態: Low Intervention White | 少干預白酒
Another Romorantin 100%. Still very good. Riper apple similar to no 12. Abundant fruit intensity. Melon? Warm and round on the palate
19. Le Brin de Chevre / Touraine / France / 2018 $1700
品種: Menu Pineau
型態: Low Intervention White | 少干預白酒
Rounder and much more open and more fruity style – green melon? VG
20. Frileuse / Cheverny / France / 2018 $1700
品種: 1/3 Sauvignon Blanc, 1/3 Fié Gris, 1/3 Chardonnay
型態: Low Intervention White | 少干預白酒 (部分於陶甕中發酵培醞)
VG well balanced and fruity ripe green fruit 13.77% ABV
21. Qvevri Blanc / Vin de France / France / 2019 $1900
品種: Sauvignon Blanc
型態: Amphora White | 陶甕釀造白酒 (泡皮7-8個月)
Amphora-7-8 month skin contact Tannins high but got some fresh yellow fruits.
22. Le Petit Buisson / Touraine / France / 2019 $1200
品種: Sauvignon Blanc
型態: Low Intervention White | 少干預白酒 (部分於陶甕中發酵培醞)
SB very good. Full of stone fruit intensity- quite peachy.
************I have not tried the below sadly***********
23. Pineau de La Loire / Vin de France / France / 2019 $1200
品種: Chenin Blanc, Menu Pineau
型態: Low Intervention White | 少干預白酒
24. Dolia / Vin de France / France / 2019 $1600
品種: Sauvignon Blanc
型態: Amphora White | 陶甕釀造白酒
25. Le Buisson Pouilleux / Vin de France / France / 2019 $1600
品種: Sauvignon Blanc
型態: Low Intervention White | 少干預白酒
26. Tutti Frutti Rose / Vin de France / France / 2019 $1250
品種: Pineau d’Aunis, Gamay(4種不同變種), Arbois, Chenin Blanc, Meslier, Grolleau Noir和Grolleau Gris等等 (平均樹齡約90年)
型態: Field Blend Rose | 古園混調粉紅酒
27. Vin Rouge / Vin de France / France / 2019 $960
品種: Gamay
型態: Carbo | 二氧化碳泡皮法
28. Coteaux du Giennois / Coteaux du Giennois / France / 2015 $1250
品種: 80% Pinot Noir, 20% Gamay
型態: Low Intervention Red | 少干預紅酒
29. La Guerrerie / Touraine / France / 2016 $1800
品種: 65% Cot, 35% Gamay
型態: Carbo | 二氧化碳泡皮法
30. Rouillon / Cheverny / France / 2019 $1250
品種: 50% Pinot Noir, 50% Gamay
型態: Carbo | 二氧化碳泡皮法
31. Pineau d’Aunis / Vin de France / France / 2018 $1500
品種: Pineau d’Aunis
型態: Carbo | 二氧化碳泡皮法
32. La Butte / Touraine / France / 2019 $1200
品種: Gamay
型態: Carbo | 二氧化碳泡皮法
33. La Gravotte / Cheverny / France / 2019 $1700
品種: Pinot Noir
型態: Carbo | 二氧化碳泡皮法
34. La Caillere / Cheverny / France / 2019 $1700
品種: Pinot Noir
型態: Carbo | 二氧化碳泡皮法
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